Frequently Asked Questions!
Which basic materials do I need to start creating simple design pieces?
A starter kit includes the following:
- Creative Instruments
- Side cutters
- Flat-nose pliers
- Round-nose pliers
- Scissors
- For intermediate level: crimping pliers
Material
Creative elements, like beads, threads, wires, crimp beads, clasps, split rings, jump rings... The material that is necessary totally depends on your own selection and on the design piece you want to create.
Do I have to follow a specific sequence when stringing?
There are techniques, which require a certain sequence in order to successfully create the design piece (e.g. alignment according to sizes or cuts). However, there are other techniques for which no strict sequence has to be followed. Simply follow the steps in the instruction, which indicate whether a strict order is required or not.
Which types of threads should I use for which designs/techniques?
For creating your own design, the following information should help: Nylon thread is used for beading figurines and rings because it is very flexible compared to tiger tail. It is also used for stringing and making necklaces or bracelets. In general, 0.25 mm nylon thread is perfect for most CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements, as it also goes with the smallest 3 and 2 mm beads. For this reason it can be used across a wide range of designs, as well as for beading patterns. Elastic thread is used mainly for bracelets, but also for necklaces without fasteners. In these designs elastic knots will secure the beads safely.
Tiger tail, available in different platings to suit any individual design, is used for necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and designs where visible thread is desirable. The thickness of the thread depends on your design and the bead sizes used. The colour of the wire should be chosen to match the colour of the beads when following techniques that interweave the wire into the design piece and leave the wire on show. Use a nylon-coated wire for design pieces
worn directly against the skin.
If you are working with larger beads or pendants with bigger hole sizes and the piece becomes heavy, it is advisable to use a thicker thread or to double it up to increase stability and longevity. Generally speaking, the bigger the size of bead, the thicker the diameter of wire or thread. But also consider that sometimes the thread has to go through beads several times.
Which types of wires should I use for which designs/techniques?
Information concerning the type and thickness of a wire is usually provided in the instructions. For creating your own design and for different wiring techniques, various wires with different diameters and platings may be required, depending on the design, the hole sizes and the technique.
What do I have to do if a crimp bead breaks?
If a crimp bead breaks after crimping, please carefully remove the broken parts of the crimp bead with the help of a pair of chain-nose pliers.
Please pay special attention when removing the broken crimp bead from a nylon thread or a nylon-coated thread, as the broken parts can have sharp edges, which may cut through the threads.
Why does a crimp bead break?
There are different reasons for a crimp beads breaking when using crimping pliers: The size of the crimp bead does not correspond to the size of the indentation of the crimping pliers. It is important to ensure the size of the crimping beads corresponds with that of beads and pliers before purchase.
The incorrect position of a crimp bead in the indentation of the crimping pliers may also cause the crimp bead to break.
What are the standard lengths for necklaces?
Necklace | Length |
Choker/Collier | 40-45 cm |
Princess | 60-65 cm |
Sautoir/Queen's length | 80-100 cm |
How many beads do I need for a necklace or a bracelet?
The number of beads needed for a design depends on each individual design and the size of the chosen beads. The information in the following table provides a useful guideline.
Article | Size | Quantiy (for a 10 cm string) |
5301 | 3 mm | 40 |
4 mm | 27 |
6 mm | 17 |
8 mm | 13 |
10 mm | 10 |
Which thread do I use with which crimp beads or crimp tubes?
You can use crimp beads or tubes on many different threads like tiger tail or nylon thread. Be careful when using crimp beads on nylon thread, as the sharp edges of the beads may cut through the thread. For finishing strands, use crimp beads that are big enough to allow the thread to go through several times. Whether to use crimp beads or tubes depends entirely on the look you want to achieve in your individual design piece.
TIPS & Tricks
- Use good light conditions; bright daylight is best.
- Create a comfortable working environment.
- Be prepared: Set up required materials, eliminate disruptive factors, and use boxes for beads.
- Use a beading mat – it provides a comfortable surface to work on, and helps you avoid losing beads and other smaller parts.
- Using high-quality instruments will help you create beautiful, durable jewellery pieces.
- Always have neatly cut ends.
- Never cut wire with scissors, always with side cutters.
- Use flat-nose pliers for straightening and fl attening out metal.
- Prepare bead mixes beforehand, in order to concentrate more on technique than colour combination once work is underway – this is especially important for beginners.
- Make sure you have enough crystal elements of each colour before you start.
- The size of the elements used infl uences the size of the design piece. Also make sure you use the right length of thread for your chosen size.
- For some designs you might need to thread through a hole twice. Make sure that the hole is big enough for you to be able to do this.
- If you use instructions, always adhere to the correct bead size to avoid problems finishing the design piece. However, you can vary colours as you wish.
- To stabilise a beaded design piece, after knotting thread back through two or more beads.
- Beading a ring: If you are beading a ring, try it on several times while you are beading to get the right size. Make the knots on the upper side of the ring, so that the ends of the thread won’t prick your hands and skin.
FINISHING STRANDS
To ensure strands of jewellery are beautifully finished, use crimp beads/ tubes, split rings, jump rings, lobster clasps and French wire. You will also need the correct kind of pliers.
Crimping
Through the use of crimp beads or tubes, clasps can be attached to the thread and beads and pendants can be hold in position. They are also used for fi xing single beads at any position of the thread.
Useful Tips & Tricks:
- Always make sure you use the correct crimping pliers for the size of crimp beads/tubes.
- To select the correct size of crimp beads/tubes, work out how often the thread has to go through the crimp bead/tube.
- It is not recommended to apply crimp beads/tubes onto nylon thread, but if so be careful as the sharp edges of the crimp beads/tubes may cut through the thread.
- In some designs fl at-nose pliers may be used to fi x the crimp beads/tubes, in order to secure beads or pearls at a specific place on the thread.
- In general it is more secure to work with two crimp beads at each side of the string as shown in the picture 1.
Instruction:
Steps:
First feed the thread back through the crimp bead and the first bead. This guarantees that:
Then squeeze the crimp beads/tubes into smoothly rounded crimps to close and secure the crimp beads/tubes as shown in picture 2


Finally make sure that the crimp bead/tube is completely fixed.
Split Ring
Open the split ring and add the clasp.

Jump Ring
Instruction:
Steps:
Open the jump ring with two flat-nose pliers or chain-nose pliers.
Add the components into the jump ring.
Then close the jump ring again with two pliers.

Lobster clasp
Use Lobster Clasps or any other fasteners with either split rings or jump rings.

French wire
French wire gives your designs a beautifully fi nished look by covering the thread completely. It is most commonly used with nylon or silk strung beads.

Get a free beginners guide from Swarovski! Click here!
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
The following information on how to wear, store and clean your jewellery, will help ensure the longevity and brilliance of your unique design piece. It will guarantee you long-lasting pleasure in your treasured items!
VALUABLE TIPS
Always remove your jewellery BEFORE washing hands, swimming or applying body care products. It should also be taken off before carrying out any sports activities or doing household chores.
Remember to reserve your jewellery as a finishing touch, AFTER using applying body care products like perfume, beauty cream, make up or hair spray.
Try to protect all jewellery from sharp blows, harsh chemicals found in household cleaning materials, sunlight and extreme temperatures.
Chlorine and related chemicals can severely discolour and damage jewellery as well as loosen stones and settings.
Ensure your jewellery does not come into prolonged contact with matches, rubber bands or any materials that contain sulphur, as well as abrasive soaps, chemicals, perfumes, hair sprays and/or dyes.
STORAGE
Proper care and storage of your loose CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements and finished design pieces will help maintain its quality and lustre.
Please preserve your jewellery in its original padded box or in a velvet pouch. Proper care and storage of your jewellery as well as occasional polishing with a soft cloth will help maintain its lustre and beauty over time. Please make sure that your jewellery is stored away from intense heat and light.
After cleaning your jewellery, please make sure it is completely dry before being stored.
Silver jewellery that is prone to tarnish is best stored in an airtight container. (Any moisture will cause the tarnishing process to begin.) A zip-lock bag with anti-tarnish paper is also highly recommended.
GENERAL CLEANING OF CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements
CRYSTALLIZED™ Swarovski Elements
Occasional polishing with a soft lint-free cloth or the CRYSTALLIZED™ Jewellery Polishing Cloth, will help you to retain the original sheen of the crystal elements. If CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements are soiled, they should be cleaned by hand in lukewarm water with a few drops of mild dish detergent or soap with a ph neutral base. Then rinse the crystal elements under running water and afterwards dry them with a soft, lint-free cloth to avoid spotting and lint spoiling the shine. ALWAYS dry your jewellery immediately after cleaning and store it in a dry, cool place until ready to wear to avoid tarnishing.
Under no circumstances should any abrasive or corrosive detergents be used; glass and window-cleaning fl uids and chlorine should also be avoided, as they often cause streaking.
CRYSTALLIZED™ Pearls
Pearls should only cleaned with a soft damp cloth or mild soap, after which you should let the pearls dry immediately. Never clean the pearls with solvents like acetone (in nail polish remover) or alcohol (in perfumes, etc). Pearls should also NOT be cleaned with a jewellery cleaner or in a jewellery-cleaning machine. The harsh cleanser can wear away the pearl coating.
DOS & DON`TS
- Don`t allow jewellery to come in prolonged contact with matches, rubber bands or anything that contains sulphur.
- Don`t allow jewellery to come in contact with abrasive soaps, chemicals, perfumes, hair sprays and/or dyes.
- Don`t rub silver jewellery with abrasive cloths and/or cleansers. Silver scratches easily.
- Don`t expose your jewellery to prolonged periods of extreme temperatures or intense sunlight. (i.e. window sills, car dashboards)
- Don`t store jewellery near a heat source.
- Do use a soft jewellery polishing cloth to prevent tarnish build-up.
- Do remove jewellery before swimming in the ocean and/or a chlorinated pool. (Chlorine may cause discoloration to silver. It will also cause damage to many gemstones and other natural products and may cause them to become loose in their settings.)
- Do remove jewellery before using cleaning materials.
- Do remove jewellery before engaging in exercise and/or sports to prevent scratching, denting or loss of gemstones.
- Do remove jewellery before going to bed to avoid twisting, knotting and/or breakage.
- Do remove jewellery when doing cleaning and/or gardening.
FINDINGS ‘Findings’ is the term used to describe the small component parts to make jewellery. There are hundreds of types of findings - too many to cover here - but the essential ones for basic jewellery making are:

| Ear wires: Used for making earrings – this finding attaches to the ear. Many different types exist including hook, hoop, lever-back, and chandelier, clip on, ear thread and ear stud. |

| Headpins: Used for stringing beads for making earrings. They come in a variety of gauges, lengths and wire types. They can also be used to make rosary style necklaces and connecting loops for jewellery. |

| Clasps: Clasps are used to complete a necklace or bracelet by allowing the ends to connect. They come in a variety of sizes, metals and designs. They also come in a wide variety of types including lobster, spring, toggle, multi-strand, magnetic, s-shape, barrel, hook & eye, swivel, fish hook, interlock, filigree and box. |

| Crimps: Crimps or crimp beads are small metal beads that are crushed onto beading wire to hold a clasp or a bead in place, rather than using a knot. They are available in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes. |

| Crimp Covers: These circular beads with a slit in the side of them are used to cover crimp beads and help to make your finish more professional. Simply cover the crimp with the crimp cover and close. |

| Jump Rings: Used for attaching clasps to wire or as a catch with a clasp. They come in a variety of diameters, shapes and sizes. |

| Wire protector: Wire protectors are used at the end of your stringing to protect your wire from rubbing and wearing from the clasp and also to give your finished article a more professional finish. Shaped like a horseshoe, you thread your thread through the wire protector and then back in your crimp bead and crush the crimp. |

| Bead Tip: There are three types of metal bead tips. They are used to cover the final knot and attach to the clasp with a metal hook that you bend over the clasp loop with pliers. |

| Bead Cap: Bead caps, also known as bell caps are generally used to adorn a bead or stone used in making jewellery – used to cap either one or both ends of a bead. It can also be used to finish the ends of a multi-strand piece, to hide the knots and give a more professional finish. |

| French Wire: Also known as 'gimp', 'gimp wire' or 'bullion wire'. Gimp wire is extremely fine coiled wire and is used to protect the threads from the sharp edges of bead-holes, stringing threads from fraying and to give the finished article a more professional look.
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GLUES AND ADHESIVES
When considering what glue or adhesive to use remember that super glue can be used provided the project can soak liquid. Failing that there are a number of excellent adhesives that you can use for finishing your project.
Adhesive Name | Application |
Epoxy | This is very strong glue that is ideal for projects needing a strong bond. It is great for gluing earrings to backings but it will only harden when it is mixed with its curing agent. Be sure to use proper ventilation when using this glue. It dries clear and is colourless. It is also waterproof. |
E-6000 | This glue is ideal for any project that doesn’t require quick drying. It allows you time to get your project together but you will need to position your project to allow it to set properly. It is waterproof but can dry cloudy and shouldn’t be used on knots or foil beads. Be sure to use proper ventilation when using this glue. |
G-S Hypo Fabric Cement | This glue is good for working with fabric (also textiles, plastic & leather). It is also ideal for sealing knots. It dries clear but requires that you cure it for 24 hours. It is ideal for porous bonding and has a fine tip applicator for precision work. |
G-S Hypo Tube Cement | This glue is great for any type of non-porous bonding such as gluing glass beads or setting cabochons. Also great with half drill beads for making earrings. It has a fine tip applicator for precision work. |
STRINGING
Stringing Name | Application |
Elastic | Elastic is a flexible clear cord. It is often used for slip-on bracelets, it only requires a knot to finish. Great for children’s jewellery.
Tips: Sometimes the knots on elastic can open – to prevent this and make the elastic finish stronger you can add a crimp bead over of the knot and crush – hide the knot and crimp back under a bead. |
Kevlar 
| Kevlar is a very strong synthetic material. So strong, in fact, it's used to make bulletproof vests!
Tips: This thread works best for stringing and you can use any type of needle to work with it. When securing Kevlar, use a fisherman's knot to ensure its continued strength. Kevlar is naturally yellow, but can be dyed any colour using fabric dyes but it can’t be bleached. |
Leather Cord | Leather Cord is always a popular stringing material as there is no finishing required. Simply add a pendant, tie a bow and go. Cord is available in a range of colours and sizes. Tips: Although a simple bow can finish the back of leather cord necklace, you could also use a finding called a fold-over at the end of the cord – add a jump ring on one side and a jump ring and clasp on the other. This technique can also be used if using ribbon or suede/faux suede and rattail. |
Nylon Coated Wire 
| Nylon Coated Wire - Known as Cable cord this beading wire is also known by brand names such as "Acculon", "Soft Flex Wire", or "Beadalon" and consists of multi-strand braided stainless steel wire with a nylon coating. These are soft wires, meaning they act as a thread rather than a stiff metal. Depending on the brand and style, some brands are stiffer than others. Usually, the more stainless steel wires per strand, the softer and more flexible it is. The most commonly used type is a 7strand There are a few benefits of choosing a beading wire over thread. It is usually stronger. It is less likely to be cut by beads with sharp edges. It is better for heavier beads. You do not need a needle for stringing (because it is already stiff enough). The best way to attach your clasp is with crimp beads. “Tigertail” is another version of nylon coated wire but is heavier and stiffer than the other nylon coated wires noted above. It also only comes in steel colour but does come in a variety of sizes. |
Nylon Bead Cord | Nylon Bead Cord – this is a multi purpose bead cord. You can use Beeswax or thread heaven to coat the cord to keep it from fraying and tangling. |
Nymo nylon 
| Nymo nylon beading thread is a good choice for working with seed beads. It's lightweight and comes in a variety of thicknesses and colors. Be sure to use Thread Heaven (or beeswax) to coat and prevent it from fraying.
Tips: Use only size "D" and lightweight beads with smooth holes for stringing. For loom work, use size "D" for the warp and size "B" or "D" for the weft. Any needle works with this thread but ensure that the needle eye isn't too small for the thread weight you've chosen. |
Memory Wire | Memory Wire: Think slinky! This is wire that ‘remembers’ its shape and comes in necklace, bracelet and earring sizes. It holds it shape well, is strong and versatile to use. It can be used to fit any size wrist, ring size or neck. Tips: Memory wire will damage normal wire cutters – be sure to use memory wire cutters to cut it. |
Rattail 
| Rattail - is a round, satin-like cord, often used to show off one large pendant or centre piece in a wide range of beautiful colours. |
Silk | Silk is the most traditional thread for stringing pearls, but the thinner sizes are also useful in making other beaded pieces. This natural material has a large range of sizes and variety of colours. Tips: Silk often comes on cards that include a needle already attached to the thread. You can use any of the other needles listed as well, but be sure your needle isn't wearing out the thread. Silk is sometimes difficult to thread onto a beading needle (because it can fray), so ensure you have a big eye on your needle or use a needle threader and be sure to thoroughly prepare the thread with beeswax or Thread Heaven.
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Silk Bead Cord 
| Silk Bead Cord - is used for beads with smaller holes such as beads smaller than 5mm or pearls (freshwater/seed etc). You can also knot this thread using a traditional pearl knitting technique or a pearl knotting tool. |
Silkon Bonded Nylon Thread | Silkon Bonded Nylon Thread is a synthetic material that looks and drapes like silk, but resists fraying and has excellent strength. It comes in three weights - light, medium, and heavy and in a wide variety of colours.
Tips: As it is so strong Silkon is primarily used for stringing beads. You can use any type of needle with this type of thread. |
Translucent Cord | Translucent Cord – also known as cat gut, monofilament or illusion cord is perfect for stringing beads when you don't want the cord to be visible.
Tips: People often use crimps either side of a bead to give a floating effect – if using translucent cord you can loop the cord back through the bead and not crimp beads to give a truly floating effect. |
Wire 
| Wire comes in a variety of sizes, shapes, colours, strengths and tempers. Wire Gauges refer to wire gauge sizes, the larger the number, the smaller the diameter of the wire. Wire Temper measures the amount of spring in the wire – soft has no spring when you bend it (good for making wire beads) and half hard has some spring but is still malleable and holds its shape well (good for basic wirework).
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WIRE GAUGE CHART
GAUGE | MILLIMETRES | INCHES |
32 | 0.2 | 0.8 |
30 | 0.25 | 0.01 |
28 | 0.32 | 0.012 |
26 | 0.4 | 0.015 |
24 | 0.5 | 0.02 |
22 | 0.6 | 0.025 |
20 | 0.8 | 0.03 |
18 | 1.0 | 0.04 |
16 | 1.2 | 0.05 |
15 | 1.45 | 0.057 |
TOOLS
In this section we introduce you to the most common tools used for jewellery making. This doesn’t mean that you need to go out and buy all these tools straight away! Remember just buy those tools that are essential for the type of jewellery making you intend to pursue. However it is worth while investing in a good set of basic tools that should last a lifetime!

| Round Nosed Pliers: Are used for making simple eye loops for earrings – they can also be used to create shapes with wire |

| Chain Nosed Pliers: Are used for crushing crimp beads, wire wrapping, opening/closing jump rings, closing crimp covers and smoothing down wire edges. |

| Side Cutters: Are used for cutting stringing and wire. They cut the wire flush; leaving a smooth edge so there should be no snagging. |

| Bent Nosed Pliers: Are used for reaching and shaping wire in awkward positions and gripping cord in small areas. Can also be used for crushing crimps. |

| Flat Nosed Pliers: Are used for opening/closing jump rings and can be used to crush crimps. |

| Nylon Jaw Pliers: Are used for straightening wire of various gauges. Essential for wirework. |

| Crimping Pliers: Are used for crushing and shaping crimp beads to look like small bead with no unsightly edges |

| Bead Mat: Used for laying out your beads in advance of working on your project – prevents the beads from rolling around your workstation! |

| Bead Board: Is useful for designing your necklace/bracelet in advance of stringing – you can lay out your design and even measure it using the rulers around the bead board. |

| Needles: Beading needles are very thin, flexible needles most often used for seed bead work. The advantage to using this type (rather than regular sewing needles) is that their eyes are the same width as the rest of the needle, so there's no added metal width to get in the way as you pass through seed and other small-holed beads. Use for bead embroidery, loom work, off-loom beadwork and stringing. Big Eye needles are extremely easy to thread. They feature two sharp ends with tension wires down the middle that can be split; simply open the wires and pass the thread through. Use for bead embroidery, loom work and stringing. Twisted beading needles are primarily used for stringing beads because they don't have a sharp point. Their wide eyes are easy to thread, and collapse once you pass through the beads.
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